Written by the TravelZeg team in New Delhi.
Go between June and September
Ladakh is a high desert on the far side of the Himalaya. Its passes are snowbound for much of the year, and the season for most travellers runs from June to September, when the valleys are green with barley and the monasteries hold their festivals.
July and August are the busiest months. June and September are quieter, cooler at night and often clearer. The monsoon that soaks the rest of India barely reaches Ladakh, which is why summer is the time to go.
Fly in, and rest on the first day
Leh is at about 3,500 metres. If you fly in from Delhi, you arrive at that height in about an hour and a half, and your body needs time to adjust. We plan the first day with nothing in it but rest, and the second with a short, gentle visit.
Our advice
Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol for the first days, and tell your guide at once if you have a headache that does not go away, nausea or breathlessness at rest. Ask your doctor about altitude before you travel.
The higher places come later in the trip: the Khardung La pass above 5,000 metres on the way to the Nubra valley, and Pangong lake at about 4,250 metres. We only take you there after three or four nights in Leh.
Permits
Foreign visitors need a protected area permit for the Nubra valley, Pangong and the other areas near the borders. We apply for it with your passport details before you arrive; you only need to carry copies.
Phones, cash and comfort
- Mobile coverage is patchy outside Leh, and many foreign and prepaid SIM cards do not work in Ladakh. Hotels in Leh have Wi-Fi; camps and homestays often do not.
- Leh is the only reliable place to find a cash machine. Carry enough rupees for tips and small purchases in the valleys.
- The sun is strong at altitude: bring a hat, sunglasses and high-factor sun cream. Nights are cold even in July.
- Hotels in Leh are comfortable; in Nubra and at Pangong, the best option is often a well-run camp with proper beds and bathrooms.
How long to stay
Ten nights is a good length for a first visit: four in Leh and the monasteries of the Indus valley, two or three in Nubra, one at Pangong, and a last night back in Leh before the flight. It is the shape of our sample journey.